Wig decorations, like this New Kingdom example in gold, glass, and gems, were used by well-to-do women. The ancient Egyptians often shaved their heads for sanitary reasons but wore elaborate wigs when called for in celebrations or religious ceremonies.
Finger Coverings
The Egyptians were famous for mummifying the deceased, and even the dead had their own jewelry. These finger coverings, or stalls, from the New Kingdom were used to dress up the dead for their journey to the next world.
Amulets
Amulets, while not strictly jewelry, were small objects carried or worn to protect the wearer from harm, preserve their health, or bring luck.
Symbolism in Jewelry
The Egyptians rarely made anything that didn’t have layers of meanings. So, a necklace might have a falcon (seen in the natural world), but which also represented Horus (the falcon god) and by extension, the Pharaoh, who was considered a descendant of the gods and was protected by Horus.
Colors also conveyed part of the meaning: green meant health; red represented blood or strength; blue was rebirth; yellow suggested the sun or gods; white was purity and used for religious observances, and black was for death and rebirth. The colors in jewelry were drawn from the elements, gems, paint, and glazes that the Egyptians had available. Jewelry also depicted objects that had meanings beyond their shape:
- Scarab beetle: meant rebirth. The beetle (also called a dung beetle) would deposit their eggs into balls of manure. When the eggs hatched, it looked like the smaller beetles arose by themselves. The Egyptians also believed the sun was rolled around the heavens by a giant beetle, and reborn each day. Sometimes people (or mummies) wore a scarab necklace with engraved prayers for health and safety.
Ankh: may represent a sandal or a belt and meant immortality or the breath of life. It appears on jewelry as a protective sign.
- The Lotus (water lily) was a very important symbol to Egyptians. They believed that the world was covered with water and darkness, until the lotus bloomed, and revealed the sun god, creator of life.
- Horus Eye: Isis’s son, Horus, is represented by a figure called the “wadjet” in Egyptian. The wadjet offered protection to the wearer, and the eye is often found on royal jewelry. The six sections of the eye also represented smell, hearing, taste, sight, touch, and thought.
Cartouche: The cartouche was an oval figure that had hieroglyphs which usually indicated the king’s or other royal’s name. This scarab is for Thutmose III and shows the dung beetle, the sun, a Sphinx, and a captive.
- Uraeus: A rearing cobra was a sign of power and magic in ancient Egypt. The Pharaoh wore the symbol on his crown, an important piece of jewelry.
- Isis Knot: Somewhat resembling a knot of fabric or rope, the tyet was used as an amulet for protection after death.
The Egyptians had hundreds of symbols, with many appearing on their hieroglyphic lists, and in jewelry designs. It may take time to decipher the meaning, but it’s an excellent way to better understand how the jewelry was perceived and used by its original owner.
Dynasties and Time Periods
Ancient Egypt’s history is defined by dynasties or eras defined by rulers as well as by changes in art, design, and personal adornment which appeared throughout the eras:
- Predynastic (3100 – 2600 BCE): Egyptian hieroglyphs first appeared. Hieroglyphs would be used frequently in tombs, on buildings, in art, and on jewelry.
- Old Kingdom (2600 – 2160 BCE): The pyramids and sphinx were built by Sneferu and Khufu (often identified as Cheops.) Jewelry from the tomb of Den indicates that Egyptian artisans could work gems and gold.
- Middle Kingdom (2040 – 1700 BCE): Upper and Lower Egypt were reunited, and Egyptian culture and arts, including jewelry, thrived, with elaborate jewelry inlays and gold work.
- New Kingdom (1570 – 1070 BCE): King Tutankhamen and his father, Akhenaten are among the best-known figures from this period, and the jewelry found with the boy king’s burial reveals exquisite artistry and craftsmanship.
- Late Period (600 – 332 BCE): The last era when the country was governed by Egyptians. Jewelry included designs copied from the natural world, like this frog ring.
- Greco-Roman Period (332 BCE – 395 CE): Foreign leaders from Greece and Rome, including Alexander the Great and Cleopatra VII, controlled Egypt. Jewelry still reflected older traditions.
In between some of the dynasties were intermediate periods when Egypt faced political upheaval. But despite political changes, for more than 3,000 years Egyptian art and writing were used to celebrate pharaohs, gods, goddesses, and culture and influenced the design of their jewelry.
Where to Purchase
Ancient Egyptian jewelry still appeals to people thousands of years after it first appeared. If you want to enjoy wearing this portable art, there are many resources for locating original pieces as well as more affordable (and less delicate) reproductions.
- It’s best to deal with experts if you are looking for original pieces. Both Christie’s and Sotheby’s auction houses offer antiquities auctions, which have included ancient Egyptian jewelry. Expect to pay $2,000 or more for even simple ceramic bead necklaces.
- You can personalize a cartouche inscribed with your own name at Sky Gift Worldwide.com. Prices begin at about $190 and go up for gold cartouches based on the number of letters you select.
- Kemet Designs offers wadjet and other symbols from ancient Egypt, translated into modern jewelry. Prices for silver bracelets, necklaces, and earrings begin around $40.
- For fine gold and gemstone jewelry inspired by the ancients, Ka-Gold Jewelry can provide works of art in silver or gold that begin around $80 and go up to $3,000 for a gold cuff bracelet decorated with symbols of truth.
- Scarab reproductions are available at Nilestone for $250 and up, depending upon the amount of gold and decorations.
Ancient Egyptian Jewelry Today
The jewelry of ancient Egyptians held religious and symbolic significance and was treasured for its beauty and power against evil and death. It was buried with men and women because the Egyptians expected to enjoy wearing their finery in the afterlife. Today’s lovers of ancient designs can still share in the enjoyment of this magnificent craft.